1. What do i need to replace? (any rings, bolts, pins? Please Specify)

2. What Special tools do i need? (ring gear holder necessary?)

3. What special precautions are there?

4. Are there any shortcuts?

5. What size sockets are needed to remove the flywheel (i know they are 12 pt)

6. How long will this take if i have 2 buddees helping me? or alone?

7. DO I HAVE TO REMOVE THE RADIATOR???? and DRAIN IT?

i have an EXEDY Clutch Kit, and a OEM lightened flywheel. Honda MTF

[Modified by G2-Rex, 1:41 PM 12/27/2002]

quote:

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Just wondering how hard it is to do. Scale of 1-10 (i replaced rear drum shoes before)

1. What do i need to replace? (any rings, bolts, pins? Please Specify)

2. What Special tools do i need? (ring gear holder necessary?)

3. What special precautions are there?

4. Are there any shortcuts?

5. What size sockets are needed to remove the flywheel (i know they are 12 pt)

6. How long will this take if i have 2 buddees helping me? or alone?

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

So far i have an EXEDY Clutch Kit, and a OEM lightened flywheel. Going to pick up some Honda MTF

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1. If your getting a performance clutch it will probably come with every thing except the throw out bearing. You may want to replace the bearing since you will have it apart.

2. You may need a pickle fork to get ball joints off to remove the axels. Other than that you should be ok with a metric socket set.

3. Make sure you replace any transmission fluid that may come out after axel removal. Disconnet the battery 1st.

4. Just take your time. It should not take much longer than 4 hours to do.

5. You dont need to remove the flywheel unless you are going to resurface it. I beleive its a 12 pt 14mm socket if I'm not mistaken.

6. About 4 hours or so.

[Modified by ZC_CRX, 7:34 PM 12/22/2002]

1990 4G63 AWD TSI Modded.

There is no swap I can't do....Honda, Subaru, Mitsubishi....you name it I'll name the price!

hellspawonline@hotmail.com

1990 4G63 AWD TSI Modded.

There is no swap I can't do....Honda, Subaru, Mitsubishi....you name it I'll name the price!

hellspawonline@hotmail.com

So heres a list of the stuff ill be getting (let me know if i need to add anything)

- 2 quarts HONDA MTF
- Breaker Bar
- 12 pt sockets to take off bolts
- Pitch fork
need to replace axle nuts
- cotter pins (necessary or replace?)
- flywheel resurface
-

quote:

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ok i just want to make sure on the flywheel socket size since i will be buying some tools to get this done

So heres a list of the stuff ill be getting (let me know if i need to add anything)

- 2 quarts HONDA MTF
- Breaker Bar
- 12 pt sockets to take off bolts
- Pitch fork
need to replace axle nuts
- cotter pins (necessary or replace?)
- flywheel resurface
-

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pickle fork for ball joint is not necessary ( you can do it with a hammer ) but the pcker fork worth every penny it cost, it goes way better !!!!

then, you will need grease, for the bearing, dont forget to lub it really well before having it in place!!

get your friend with you, it's not a big job, but you will like to have them with you when you will remove the tranny.

I said around 4 hours, maybe 3.

see ya
kranked

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89 honda civic si
My ef ownz you fool!

Japanese Engine & Repair in garden grove for all your JDM engine needs!!

quote:

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why do all u crazy people touch the ball joints!!!! dont mess with them its a fpinta!!! just undo the sway bar and the LCA and everything swings out!!!.

---

exactly...

It's stock. No, really.

89 honda civic si
My ef ownz you fool!

Japanese Engine & Repair in garden grove for all your JDM engine needs!!

TEAM HATCH
Racing is not a crime, it's a way of life.

- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets
- 10mm & 17mm 12pt sockets
- 2" and 6" extensions
- 17mm wrench
- 2 jacks
- piece of wood to support the engine on
- 2 jack stands
- tranny fluid
- ball joint seperater
- flat head screw driver (make sure it's pretty sturdy)
- 2 cotter pins
- clutch kit (most clutch kits come with pressure plate, clutch, clutch alignment tool, and throw-out bearing)
- pilot bearing (for the flywheel)

If you have air tools, it'll take 4hrs for your first time... fastest I've ever done a clutch job by myself was 1hr 15mins.

1. open hood and disconnect and remove battery
2. remove intake up to the throttle body
3. remove battery tray
4. unbolt ground wire from tranny
5. disconnect clutch cable
6. disconnect starter wires
7. disconnect reverse switch
8. disconnect speedo cable (there's a clip on the cable that has to be removed)
9. unbolt the starter from tranny (two bolts)
10. jack the car up, secure on stands and drain tranny
11. remove tranny/engine thing (it's near the front mount, connects the tranny and engine).
12. remove wheels and unbolt shock forks from both sides
13. seperate passenger side ball joint
14. using screwdriver, pop driveaxles out of tranny
15. swing passenger side spindle from car
16. unbolt "traction" rod from LCA (two 17mm bolts)
17. place jack under engine, and place piece of wood on jack and jack up under the oil pan. use it as support.
18. unbolt front tranny mount and rear tranny mount
19. place 2nd jack under tranny
20. unbolt pass side tranny mount
21. begin removing bolts around the bellhousing that bolt to the engine
22. slowly lower tranny jack until tranny seperates from engine.
23. place screwdriver in open area and slowly lower jack supporting the engine. this should give you a handle to pry the tranny from the engine. if this doesn't work, shake the tranny while pulling to get it to pull from the engine...it shouldn't be too hard.
24. remvoe tranny from car.

simply stuff.

I've done like 8 clutches in my crx, my friend's crx, a prelude, etc etc

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quote:

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why do all u crazy people touch the ball joints!!!! dont mess with them its a fpinta!!! just undo the sway bar and the LCA and everything swings out!!!.

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Agreed!

Forgot to mention the Bitch Pin, you'll also need a 5/16" pin punch and a BFH.

Quote »

7PSI CRX has driven one of two CRXs for over 269,000 miles His ass was hurtin' so he got rid of the CRX and now drives this

- Mo power
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89 honda civic si
My ef ownz you fool!

Japanese Engine & Repair in garden grove for all your JDM engine needs!!

quote:

---

u dont need cotter pins or ball joint seperator. u dont need too touch them!! just the lcas and the sway bars!!!.

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just make sure you get an alignment after if you tweak it too bad.

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Chameleon 90 CRX Si B16A, Boosted - 8/11/03
T3/T04E .60 Trim, Running Uberdata, Tyrus FMIC, Running 10.0 PSI

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quote:

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just make sure you get an alignment after if you tweak it too bad.

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You don't kick the thing after its out, or whiles its in for that matter, unless you happen to lack intelligence there is no reason to get an alignment after you disconnect the lcas and knock the axles loose. If im not mistaken the honda manual even says to do it that way and it is foolish to do it any other way. Getting the axles out via the ball joints is like removing an engine through the firewall, unnecessary and more work than its worth. imo.

[Modified by altoid, 9:24 PM 12/23/2002]

89 honda civic si
My ef ownz you fool!

Japanese Engine & Repair in garden grove for all your JDM engine needs!!

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